Wedged between Yaowarat and Charoenkrung, Talad Noi is an eclectic treasure trove of old-school restaurants and vendors that have been serving the local community for decades.
We weaved our way through its maze-like alleyways with Poonperm “Perm” Paitayawat (a.k.a. @theskinnybib
), a food writer and co-founder of Fruitfull, and Paveenaorn “Boat” Duangoen (a.k.a. @boatcooks
) to find the neighborhood’s most delicious, if occasionally unheralded, food. Retrace our steps with this handy guide—Google map included.
Curry Puffs by Khun Pu
No visit to Talad Noi is complete without visiting Khun Pu for her famous curry puffs. For over 30 years, Pu and her female-strong team have been mixing, hand-rolling, filling, wrapping, and frying the flakiest puffs in town. There are six different fillings to choose from, including sweet and savory coconut, chicken curry, and taro (B9/piece). Highly recommended to visit early, because they sell out fast.
24 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-237-5425. Open Mon-Sat 7am-2pm
Kuay Tiew Roo
This legendary place might be overrun with Youtube vloggers, but it’s hyped for good reason. Kuay Tiew Roo, appropriately meaning “alley noodles,” is known for its Thai-Chinese egg noodle soups and dry noodles with homemade fish balls (B60). The real showstopper, however, is the roast pork (B60), mixed with honey using a recipe that has been passed from generation to generation.
970/1 Soi Chareonkrung Soi 22, 02-233-1697. Open daily 7:30am-4pm
Kuay Tiew Ped Jae Leng (Pae Kuay Tiew Ped)
This third generation-run shophouse, tucked away in one of Talad Noi’s most colorful alleys, has a die-hard following thanks to its duck noodles and sides. The owner, who took over his grandfather’s shop, offers warming spiced duck broth with sen mee (B60) with all the bits and bobs of the duck, but what really stands out is the duck intestine salad (B150). The long, wide noodle-like strands tossed in a salty and sour dressing sells out super quickly. Pro tip, season the intestines with chili and vinegar then chuck it into your soup.
92 Charoenkrung Rd., 099-878-8818. Open Tue, Thu, and weekends 9am-4pm
Ying Tarm Sung
This seven-year-old spot, located near the Rong Kueak shrine, can’t be found on Google maps, so keep a look out for a tiny stall boarded up with yellow covers and one single red table next to a vibrant blue wall. The vendor sells just about every Thai dish imaginable, but her specialty is the stir-fried radish cake (B50). Beautiful chunks of a flourless radish concoction are tossed in a hot wok along with egg, bean sprouts, and Chinese chives, then stir-fried until crispy on the outside and chewy on the inside.
Near the Rong Kueak shrine. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-5pm
Tue Kha Tang
This third-generation family establishment has been around for 80 years. The popular yet extremely time-consuming pork aspic, its real star, was brought back to the menu last year—with lower foot traffic, the family finally had time to revitalize their traditional recipe. The dish is a 12-hour process that involves each one of the seven brothers and sisters pitching in to create ice-cold, gelatinous chunks of aspic studded with everything from pork leg to pork skin. Mix the accompanying red chili sauce and Chinese vinegar for the ultimate bite.
689/4 Charoenkrung Rd. Open Mon-Sat, 6am-3pm
Duck Noodle House (Pedtoon Jaota)
Beloved Pedtoon Jaota is still slinging duck noodles and goose from their buzzing shophouse 44 years after they started. The outgoing septuagenarian owner still sits out front, slicing and dicing her tender duck, which is braised then laid out to dry in the Bangkok heat. These succulent slices of meat are then served over steamed rice or noodles with a side of piping-hot, aromatic broth. We recommend the duck and goose combo (B150).
945 Wanit Soi 2. Open Mon-Sat 9:30am-9pm; Sun 9:30am-3:30pm
Kwan Sew Ki Dim Sum
If you want to get a real feel of old Talat Noi, don’t miss this buzzing Cantonese-style dim sum shop. The servers run around the restaurant with trolleys filled with plates of dim sum favorites (B50 each). Feast on pork and Chinese chive wontons, shrimp dumplings, and barbecue pork buns, or go for the simple but warming shrimp wonton soup (B90), Chinese black olives with minced pork and rice (B100), or barbecue pork (B60; available on Sunday only).
894 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-233-7646. Open daily 9am-4pm
This family-owned shophouse bakery has served Bangkokians for over 80 years with friendly smiles and a range of classic sweets. Chinatown’s local community still heads here for homemade mooncakes, especially during mid-Autumn festival, but we love all the small pastries like the taro-filled khanom pia (B10) and the flaky, half moon-shaped cookies filled with sweet yellow bean (B10). This place also is not located on Google maps, but you will recognize it by the red-and-gold signage and weathered lanterns hanging above it.
65/20 Charoenkrung Soi 20. Open daily 8am-3pm
This humble stall specializes in the classic Thai snacks: saku and khao krieb pak mor. The two sisters who run the show make hundreds of the sweet-savory bites in their silver dome-shaped steamer. Both treats have the same filling of peanuts, palm sugar, soy sauce, and radish. The khao krieb really shines, though: a thin crepe steamed and delicately wrapped around the filling, then served with crispy garlic, lettuce, and coriander.
Charoenkrung Rd., near the Bangkok Bank, a block away from Kwan Sew Ki Dim Sum
All images by Paveenaorn Duangoen, Instagram @boatcooks