With a side of buttery mashed potato.

If your goal is to eat as many luxurious French ingredients in one sitting as possible, then you’d do well to check out either of the new menus L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon just launched.

One is dedicated to all that’s funky about Perigord black truffle, while the other’s an homage to the greatest dishes ever created by Joel Robuchon, who died of cancer in 2018. This being L’Atelier, neither’s cheap, but then not many places in town do fine dining quite like here.

Opt for chef Olivier Limousin’s B3,850 four-course truffle degustation and you'll be tucking into steak tartare coated in black truffle shavings on a bed of baby mache leaves; lobster fricassee in a rich bisque with black truffle and chestnuts; or beef tenderloin in truffle-and-madeira sauce with yet more black truffle shavings and that legendary Robuchon mash (the buttery secret to much of his reputation).

We’d tell you to save room for “your own preference from the dessert trolley,” yet that’s very hard when confronted with little L‘Atelier touches like the beautifully moreish shoestring fries and a bread basket brimming with yeasty temptations.

The “Legacy of Joel Robuchon” degustation menu steps things up even further. At B4,950 for five courses or B6,950 for seven, you can rest assured you’re getting all the good stuff. The menu is essentially a greatest hits of the late Robuchon’s nearly-six-decade career, as recounted in minute detail by Limousin and maitre d’ Gianvito Zizzi.

You’ll start with Sologne Imperial caviar in a lobster jelly, one of the master chef’s earliest, more daring creations, before moving onto other premium produce-touting dishes like the citrus-y sea urchin and sea bream carpaccio, and the fresh cheese ravioli in a succulent clear broth.

The menu gives nods to Asia as in the miso-glazed black cod with pak choy, Malabar pepper sauce and coconut foam—a dish that may come paired with a tale of Robuchon wandering into a Hong Kong hotel kitchen seeking inspiration.   

However, some items need no introduction, like Robuchon’s super-silky, buttery mashed potatoes, which appear alongside a Challans duck breast and foie gras duo. Ask for seconds of the pommes puree—we won’t judge.

L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon, 5/F, Mahanakorn Cube, 96 Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-001-0698. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6:30-10pm

 


Steak tartare


Lobster fricassee, chestnuts, lobster bisque