Finally reopened, Saawaan returns with a seasonal menu inspired by street food and local cuisine, but with a twist. Chef Sujira “Aom” Pongmorn and pastry chef Arisara “Paper” Chongphanitkul are turning out eight-course menus (B1,980++) that highlight traditional cooking techniques: raw, fermentation, boiling, stir-fried, charcoal-grilling, and more. 
Start with a raw dish inspired by goong ten, or spicy dancing shrimp, called goi goong (ama ebi prawn and cucumber in coconut dressing with grilled pickles and olive oil.) 
Fermentation appears in the form of kanom jeen nam prik, or fermented rice noodles in peanut served with organic veggies and flower tempura. Here, the peanut sauce is scented with jackfruit and the dish is topped with krayasatr (Thai sweet made from sesame and rice) to add new dimensions to the classic Thai breakfast. 
Thai and French ingredients elevate the standard stir-fried dish in the galum namman hoi, stir-fried cabbage with Chinese kale in oyster sauce with Jean Paul oysters. 
For dessert, chef Paper enhances traditional sweets with clever touches. Think tub tim grob (sweet water chestnut in coconut) with candle-smoked coconut ice cream. 
Staying off the sauce? Try the juice pairing (B850++), which goes beyond fruit juice to include homemade ginger ale, cold silver needle white tea, kombucha, and rice milk. 
39/19 Suan Phlu, 02-679-3775. Open daily 5:30-11:30pm.
All images courtesy of Saawaan